Teak, Cherry Portable Wooden Bar Designs and Plans

Portable Wooden Bar Designs and Plans; Teak, Cherry - Stop me if you've heard this one: A guy walks into a bar and he says... MicroJig. Maker of the GRR-RIPPER. Work safer. Work smarter. I'm gluing together two pairs of these ¾" thick boards. I want the seat to also be an inch and a half thick so I'm gluing together some wider boards. To square these up, I'm going to start by jointing one edge using this jig on my table saw. I want the legs to be square, so I'm going to set my rip fence to the width of this board. And rip these into 1 ½" wide strips. All of the legs are going to need to tilt in two directions, this way and this way, which means I need to make a compound miter cut on all the ends. And that just means I'm going to tilt my blade to 7° and I'm going to tilt my miter gauge to 7°. You could also do this on a compound miter saw. So that will let the leg lean in two directions. The next cut is going to be the critical one because that determines the length of the legs and I need them all to be exact. So what I think I'm going to do is gang these up, clamp them together, and try to cut them all at the same time.

These legs look like a perfect opportunity for me to screw up which sides I drill the holes in. So I'm going to set them up here and mark which sides the holes go on so I don't mess it up. commercial wood portable bars To make the holes I need to tilt my drill press table to that same 7° Each leg gets a hole that's 10" from the bottom on one side, and 9" from the bottom on the adjacent side. And the same goes for the top. The confusing part is to make sure this goes in the right way in my drill press so that the angle of the hole is parallel with the floor. I hope all that made sense! I've clamped on a stop block to my fence that's 10" from the drill bit so I should be able to make all of these the same. I've also set up a depth stop on the drill press so that the bit will stop halfway through each leg. With all 4 of those made, I can move my stop block over to the 9" mark. By the way, I sure am glad I have a drill press table! And I'll repeat the process and make all the 9" holes which will be slightly below the previous holes.

Now I need to re-position my stop block to this side to cut the upper holes. Cherry wood portable bar I can't just flip the boards around or the holes would be going the wrong directions. I think I'm going to clamp these boards down too so they don't slide when I try to drill the holes. I screwed this piece of plywood to my workbench so I can set the bottoms of the legs against it. I've cut these two pieces of plywood to that same 7° angle and I'll screw this one in. I want the bottom span of the legs to be 13" so I'll set this other angled piece to the 13" mark. Now I can cut the dowels to size by test-fitting them. I can tell that this one is too long. The way I'm approaching this is just a lot of trial and error. There's a good fit. It just takes time and you just got to be patient. But before I glue it together I want to round over the edges of the legs on my router. Another thing I did was label all these dowels so it will be a lot easier to set this back up. I'm putting a much smaller roundover on the three inside edges. I'm going to drill one pocket hole in the top of each leg to attach them to the seat. Now it's just a matter of gluing all these dowels in. It's a good thing I marked them. It makes this a lot easier.